Angel Eye retrofit on pre 01' head lamps


Some people have shown interest in the Angel Eye style I have on my cars so I figure I'd do a write up. Unfortunately, I did this about 5 months ago so I don't have all the pictures I need to make this complete. What I've left out should be pretty simple though.


I bought 4 rings and 2 fiber optic cables (I don't think it actually is fiber optic cable, but I'll just call it that for now) off ebay for around $75 if I remember right.
The first thing you'll need to do is disassemble your headlight so that you just have the cover.



Next you'll need to remove the glass lenses by removing the metal tabs holding them in. Mine were stubborn little buggers, but I got the out with some needle nose pliers. Once they're out, you'll need to make notches in the plastic for the AE rings' arms.


When I first used these I used a razor blade and it took forever. I have a dremel tool now, and with that it only takes a couple of minutes.


Once you've got your notches, you'll need to file down the tab on the AE rings


To look like this. FILE THE TABS ALL THE WAY DOWN!!! I broke 2 rings when I didn't do this.

You should now be able to put the rings in without stressing them to much. This is the part where if you didn't file the tab down they will brake. They do flex, but not a whole lot.



Next, let's work on the light source. I found this to work best. Go to the hardware store and buy two MR11 (NOT STANDARD MR16) bulbs. They should be stocked with all the MR16 bulbs, but sometimes you have to hunt. I think I'm using 20 watt bulbs for my rings, but I don't see a reason you couldn't use stronger.
Next you'll need a plumbers reducing coupling. I think it's the largest one they make, but take the MR11 bulb over two the plumbing section and pick out the one you'll need. Match the large end of the reducer to the MR11 bulb.
You'll then need a screw tap to put some screws through the reducer in order to hold everything together.
Obviously you'll use the other end to insert the large end of the fiber optic cable and hold it close to the light bulb.


Next you'll need a way to power the bulb. I bought the following adapter from a local light fixture store (not a store that sells lamps, but a store that sells parts for lamps) I'm pretty sure the total came to $4 or so for both.


Attach to the end and your light source is built.


WIRING
I have no pictures at this time, but I basically ran a power wire from the fuse box in the glove box. The wire runs up the drivers side of the engine bay and into the space below the drivers side cabin air filter. If you take the cabin filter off like you were going to access the brake fluid reservoir you'll see wire loom running through the fire wall.
Make a small slit in the loom and run your wire through it. You may need to make another slit to the loom on the inside of the car... I just don't remember. Once you've got the wire inside the car, just run it through the dash and attach it to an accessory power supply in the fuse box.
Ground the lights to any bolt in the engine compartment that is attached to the cars chassis.

Final assembly.

Again, I don't exactly have pictures of this, but you'll need to drill a hole in the back of your headlights (the part not shown above that actually houses the bulbs) that is large enough to slip four of the fiber optic cable ends through. I have no idea what the fifth cable is for, but leave it in the engine bay.
Now, unlike the picture below, you'll have the fiber optic cables running through the housing for the headlights. The large end will be sticking out the back. Attach the fiber optic cables to the AE rings with shrink wrap. I tried electrical tape, but they kept coming lose and falling off.


Now put the lights back together and put then back into your car.
put the large end of the fiber optic cabling into the small side of the reducer and screw it down (just with pressure, don't actually screw into it.)